The New Sunday Morning Favourite

I had always been tempted to try quail eggs. Of course the size of them always scared me from wanting to crack them on to a hot pan for fear I would inevitably crack the yoke, so as a first step I tried out this little experiment that turned out stellar and has now made my regular Sunday morning rotation.

BRAD'S QUAIL EGG SALAD AND PEROGIES

(For 2) 16 free-range quail eggs; one bunch local watercress; juice of half lemon; big splash olive oil; kosher salt and fresh pepper; 8 perogies (your favourite); 1/2 local onion finely chopped; 4 strips free-range bacon cut into one-inch pieces.

Fry the bacon on low heat until crisp, set aside and keep warm. Raise the heat and sauté onion for a few seconds, season and add the perogies. Cook about 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, bring a small pot of water with the eggs to a gentle boil for 2 minutes and then drain. Peel off the shells (run them under cool water so they're safe to handle; then tap them on a hard surface; run your nail from top to bottom and then peel gently. Wash and trim the watercress and toss with lemon juice, olive oil and S&P. Add quail eggs over the top. Layer bacon and onion on the plate and top with perogies. Serve with local sour cream if you like.

February's Treat of the Month

It will amaze you just how incredible all poultry is when it's raised the right way. This is a mouth-watering favourite of mine, and is absolutely simple.

BRAD'S ROAST QUAIL WITH BROCCOLI AND SQUASH

Whole free-range quail per person; organic butternut squash; organic head of broccoli; 4 tbsp local butter; kosher salt; fresh pepper; thyme sprigs; olive oil

Melt a tbsp of butter with a generous amount of olive oil in a cast iron skillet on medium-high and sear the quails (no more than three at a time) on all sides until golden. Remove them from the pan. Add the squash and cook for 6-7 minutes. Pre-heat oven to 400. Add broccoli, season and cook for a moment (add oil if needed). Then return the quails to the pan breast-side up and add the remaining butter to the pan. As it melts, spoon it into the cavity of the quails. Season generously and lay 5-10 sprigs of thyme over everything. Transfer to the oven and cook for 35-40 minutes or until internal temperature of quails is 170. Goes great with a glass of pinot noir.

The Mission

As mentioned before, the mission for this blog for 2010 is more local, more seasonal. And so far this mission has been an overwhelming success, even moreso than I would have estimated.

Specifically, the mission is to ensure that in winter, not less than 60% of my food consumed is local, what's not local is at the very least organic and fair trade, and meat is 100% free-range and where possible, organic. Sound ambitious? Sound expensive?

Well, I'm happy to report that this has been an overwhelming success so far this winter. And for the first 6 weeks of the year, my grocery bill has actually DROPPED by about 12%. The reason? Full use of food to the max. Nothing goes to waste and meals are planned for all seven days of the week, and groceries bought once.

This started off as a bit of a challenge, mainly because doing this requires a trip to three different specialty stores.

For me, it's important to know where my food comes from and how it's procured. And while I haven't experienced an increase in costs, it would be worth it and this would not deter me. And for that matter, if I had to, I would cut costs elsewhere. Afterall, we pay for tv, internet, phones, cars, clothes... perhaps the last place we should be "bargain hunting" is with food... you get what you pay for. And if you don't want the genetic mutant produce, better be a little more selective - I'm really doubtful that a lemon should be the same size as a Florida orange.

The other added bonus is that I simply feel amazing. Despite a grueling winter I feel I've never been healthier. I sleep better and I feel less sluggish. I guess this should come as no surprise.

So throughout the year I will share some of my favourite gems; see some of my top picks for January below.

And it's on to week 7...

Canadian Farmers, Canadian Growers

When you make friends with your local butcher and start eating meat from happy animals you realise just how much flavour there is in food. This is a 100% local, 100% organic, free range, stylish dinner that will keep your dinner guests returning.

BRAD'S BISON STEAK WITH BEET RELISH & WATERCRESS-POTATO SALAD

Bison: 5 oz Bison steak per person; red wine; S&P

Salad: blue potatoes quartered; bunch watercress; thyme; 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil; 1/4 cup sour cream; 2 tbsp sherry vinnegar; tbsp horseradish; S&P

Relish (make ahead): 5 beets trimmed; 1/4 horseradish; 2/3 cup brown rice vinnegar; 1/4 cup fine sugar; tsp salt

The relish is a great make-ahead that when placed in a mason jar will last for months. Simply boil the beets for about an hour in salted water. Using a damp cloth, slide the peels off and let cool. Grate them into a bowl with the horseradish. Meanwhile, bring the rest of the ingredients to a boil in a saucepan and pour over the beet mix and toss. Let cool, refrigerate for at least 6 hours - even better if made a few days in advance.

This potato salad is without a doubt, the best you'll ever have. Par-boil the potatoes until fork-tender and then roast them off with a big drizzle of olive oil and a few thyme sprigs at 450 degrees until very tender (about 10-15 minutes). Whisk together the dressing ingredients. To serve, layer large handfuls of watercress over the potatoes and then drizzle the dressing and add extra kosher salt and fresh pepper to taste.

Bison steak is simple and fast, and the most amazing steak you'll ever have. Season steaks. In a cast-iron skillet, melt a knob of butter per steak and add a big splash of olive oil. When smoking, add the steak. Sear 3-4 minutes on each side, then remove from the pan and let rest covered about 5-7 minutes. Just before serving, reheat the pan on medium-high until smoking again and add a large splash of red wine (stand back!) and stir rapidly for about 2 minutes then remove from heat. Quickly plate the steak and then pour over the sauce.

You Can Eat Seasonal Salads in Winter!

Local and seasonal in Canada is possible, if you know where to go and what to look for. Remember, the best and healthiest salads are the ones made with the richer and darker leaf vegetables - you're not missing anything by axing the Romaine or Iceberg.

BRAD'S WINTER SALAD

Dressing: Tbsp each of Sherry Vinnegar and Brown Rice Vinnegar; Tbsp grain mustard; finely minced local shallot; scant cup extra virgin olive oil; S&P

Salad: Raddichio and Endive shredded; 1/2 bunch chopped chives; handful crumbled local blue cheese; big handful crushed walnuts

One of the best investments you can make is mason jars; especially if for pickling or dressings. The above dressing is a great make-ahead and holds for about 10-12 days.

The key with a great dressing is to let the shallot sit in the vinnegar for at least 15 minutes to set the flavours meld. Then whisk the rest of the ingredients except the oil; and then steadily add the oil whisking in a stream.

The salad above is served alongside an herb-stuffed pork tenderloin and potato salad.

TIP: For potato salad, use local new or red potatoes, which you can find pretty much year-round, and instead of mayo, use your local dairy producer's brand of sour cream (if it's liquid, it's not actually sour cream).

To Warm You Through the Dead of Winter

This is an outstanding pot that I cook up on a Sunday afternoon that will get me through a busy week. And in sub-zero temperatures, it's just what the body needs.

BRAD'S GUINNESS, MAPLE, SMOKED PORK BEAN POT

1 cup each of dried white, black and kidney beans; 5-6 ounces of smoked pork ribs; can of Guinness; 1/4 cup maple syrup; 1/4 cup molasses; 1/2 cup chicken stock; one onion finely chopped; 3-4 cloves garlic peeled and chopped; big dash cayenne; finely chopped hot pepper (your favourite); S&P to taste

Soak beans in a large bowl of water for at least 12 hours.

Pour boiling water over the hot pepper and strain. Set aside.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, boil beans for about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In the large pot, sauté onion until soft, then add garlic; sauté for a minute, then add hot pepper.

Add the remaining ingredients, simmer and cover simmering for about 3 hours.

Supreme Winter Breakfast

There's something about the flavour combinations of cinnamon, nutmeg and maple syrup that warm the soul in winter. On a Saturday morning before heading out to the cross-country ski trails, this is an excellent way to start off.

CINNAMON AND NUTMEG FRENCH TOAST

(For 2)
4 free-range eggs; 1/2 cup milk; 1/4 cup brown sugar; big splash apple cider; big dashes of nutmeg and cinnamon; 6 pieces of egg bread, a couple days old

Preheat 375. Mix all the ingredients except the bread in a bowl, and then pour into a large dish. Soak the bread in the batter for about 7-8 minutes. Then turn and soak the other side for about 5 minutes. Lay flat onto a well-greased baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes; turn and bake 10 minutes more. Great with a side of free range bacon, real maple syrup and some apple cider.