Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Autumn Comfort 4


There's something about autumn that makes us crave rich savoury or sweet comfort foods. Remnant instincts for eating rich foods before winter from our early ancestors aside, there's something about autumn comfort foods that make us feel almost euphoric when the temperature plummets, the frost starts showing up and everything gets a whole lot more orange.

My favourite berry, or fruit for that matter, is blueberry. So much so that I store this up in August-September so that I'll have enough in the freezer to at least get me through to mid-winter. Great for smoothies, pies, yogurt snacks, vinaigrette, or anything else you can think of. Try waking up to this treat one cold autumn Sunday morning.

BRAD'S BLUEBERRY FRENCH TOAST WITH CUSTARD

(For 4)
French Toast: 8 slices of thick white bread; 4 free-run eggs; 1/2 cup milk; tbsp vanilla extract; tbsp sugar; tsp ground cinnamon; pinch salt; 2 tbsp butter; splash grapeseed oil
Custard: 3/4 cup heavy cream; 3/4 cup milk; 2 tsp vanilla extract; 4 free-run egg yolks; 1/4 cup sugar
Fresh or frozen blueberries

To make custard, pour half the cream, all the milk and vanilla in a sauce pan. Place on medium-high heat but just to a light simmer (do not boil) and then remove from heat. While you're waiting, in a bowl, whisk the remaining cream with the egg yolks and sugar until silky smooth. Drop just a dribble of the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking - this evens out the temperature so you don't wind up with scrambled eggs. Slowly continue adding the hot milk whisking continuously, and then pour all the mixture back into the sauce pan and cook over medium heat until it thickens and covers the back of a wooden spoon (will take 7-10 minutes). Set aside and keep warm.

Pre-heat oven to 350. For the french toast, pour all the batter ingredients in a wide dish and soak the toast about one minute per side. In a cast iron skillet, melt butter with a splash of grapeseed or other light vegetable oil and cook toast about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a pyrex dish and finish cooking in the oven about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour the blueberries in a saucepan and drizzle with a splash of maple syrup - bring to a gentle simmer.

Plate up with custard over the french toast topped with blueberries. Then get ready and go for a hike to burn off some of the 1000 calories you just ate ;)

Autumn Comfort 3


No matter how much I like to be creative with food, just as often, I like to fall back to what I grew up with - the food that warmed my soul as a kid. Of the thousand uses for left-over chicken, this is by far my favourite.
CLASSIC HOT CHICKEN SANDWICH AND HOMEFRIES
Left-over chicken sliced; fresh bread (your favourite); russet potatoes peeled and wedged into homefries; pan drippings from chicken; chicken stock; tbsp corn starch; tbsp water; Kosher salt; fresh pepper
What makes this dish even more special is that you get to use up the pan drippings from your chicken. Of course, if you make gravy with your roast chicken, just make extra for this little treat. But if not, keep the drippings in a tight container in the fridge. When ready, skim the fat off the top and you have a perfect homemade gravy mix. As always, I advise making stock with your chicken bones (see recipe posted a while ago) and use for soups and anything else (like gravy). Simply put your drippings and stock (however much you'll need) in a sauce pan and bring to a gentle boil. Meanwhile mix corn starch and water in a cup, and when the gravy is boiling, whisk it in and reduce to a simmer. If you like it thicker, repeat this until you get the thickness you want. Let simmer very gently for at least 10 minutes.
For the perfect traditional homefries, you want fresh clean canola oil heated in a deep-frier at 385 degrees. Cook for about 12-14 minutes, tossing every 3 minutes or so. Let drain for a minute and then dump the fries on a paper towel and season to taste.
My favourite way to set this up is to put the chicken on one slice of bread and smother it in gravy, then add the second slice of bread and smother that one - and then a bit extra for the homefries. If you have leftover stuffing, peas or root vegetables on hand, these also make great sides.

Autumn Comfort 2


Here's a spin on one of your favourite childhood comfort classics.
BRAD'S SPAGHETTI SQUASH AND MEATBALLS
(For 4)
Meatballs: 500g free-run ground meat (whatever you feel like - mix more than one type if you're so inclined); 1/2 bunch flat-leaf Italian parsley (finely chopped); palmful of Kosher salt; fresh black pepper; 1/2-3/4 cup breadcrumbs; one free-run egg; 2 tsp smoked paprika
Sauce: 6 fresh vine tomatoes; 1/2 cup tomato paste; tbsp Kosher salt; 1/4 bunch finely chopped fresh oregano; handful fresh finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley; fresh black pepper
Spaghetti: One spaghetti squash; tbsp butter
Cut the squash in half length-wise, scoop out seeds, and bake flesh-side down in a 375 degree pre-heated oven for about 35-40 minutes, or until the flesh is tender. Let cool slightly.
Blits the tomatoes in a food processor and pour in a saucepan with the rest of the sauce ingredients; bring to a boil; reduce and let simmer until you're ready to serve up.
Mix the meatball ingredients in a large bowl and form meatballs. In a cast iron skillet with olive oil, fry the meatballs on all sides until nicely browned. Place in the simmering sauce to let them finish cooking.
For the spaghetti squash, simply scrape out the flesh using a fork width-wise. The flesh will come out just like spaghetti strands.
The joys of spaghetti and meatballs without all the empty carbs of pasta :)

Autumn Comfort 1


If you miss the BBQ burgers of summer time, I can do you one better. This is my autumn comfort version of everyone's favourite summer time indulgence, and you don't even have to stand outside over the BBQ (unless you really want to). My friends get a little crazy when I say I'm making these and they tend to draw crowds, and believe me, you'll know why once you try them.
BRAD'S BISON BURGERS AND SWEET POTATO FRIES
(For 4)
500g ground free-range bison meat; 1/2 - 3/4 cup bread crumbs; 1 red onion finely chopped; 2 tsp smoked paprika; 2 tsp chile powder; 1/2 tbsp Kosher salt; 1/2 tbsp fresh black pepper; 2 tsp seasoned orange salt; 1 free-run egg; your favourite hamburger rolls; local blue cheese; 8 strips free-run bacon; fresh sliced tomatoes; fresh spinach leaves; your favourite bbq sauce; tbsp butter; splash of grapeseed or other light vegetable oil
Pan-fry bacon on medium-low until crisp and set aside. In the same pan, sauté onions until soft and almost carmilised - let cool. Combine meat, seasonings, onions and bread crumbs in a large bowl and mix - add egg and with your hands form the burger mould. If it feels too wet, add more crumbs; too dry, add some vegetable oil. Form patties by hand - about 3/4 inch thick. (This is also a great make-ahead - will keep in the refrigerator for up to a day.)
In a cast-iron skillet, melt butter with a splash of oil over medium heat. Once lightly smoking, cook the patties about 3-4 minutes per side. Top burgers with blue cheese, bacon, sauce, and veg. Amazing served with salad or fries (see below).
BRAD'S SWEET POTATO FRIES

3 sweet potatoes washed; olive oil; kosher salt; fresh black pepper; smoked paprika; dried oregano
This one is super-easy. Cut the potatoes into wedges - about 1/2 inch thick. Toss the potato in seasonings (however much or little as you think you'll like) and olive oil. Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for about 35-40 minutes, turning occasionally until crispy and tender. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Wednesday, September 8, 2010

Finishing Off The Farm Fresh Summer Vegetables


I discovered this past summer that one of the best ways to enjoy the peak of farm fresh vegetable season is gazpacho. Like all soups, this is extremely versatile and forgiving, but from the various approaches I've taken to it, this one topped the list.
BRAD'S GAZPACHO
(For 4)
Three juicy ripe tomatoes quartered; one red bell pepper quartered and seeded; one red onion sliced; one cucumber peeled and cut into chunks; 2 cups tomato juice; 1/2 cup water; 1/4 cup olive oil; tbsp apple cider vinegar; 1/2 bunch fresh dill; juice of a lemon; S&P
Place all ingredients except S&P in a food processor and blitz until there are no chunks. Season to taste. That's it.
Refrigerate this for a while. It's best if you make it a day ahead, but still good if it's left for a few hours. Serve alongside some chicken or steak, or just with some fresh baked baguette with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. One last chance before you have to wait until next summer!

First Restaurant Review

Okay, by no means am I suggesting I'm in any qualified to give restaurant reviews, but hey, in a sense we're all qualified because we all eat and we know what we like. After two years of opening up a culinary journey for myself, I've travelled from coast to coast and sampled from some incredible restaurants.

Before I begin review entries (positive ones only here), I'll start by naming my top 3 EVER. I can't say these are in any particular order, so I'll just go from west to east.

BRAD'S TOP 3 FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN CANADA

BON ROUGE RESTAURANT AND BISTRO (Victoria, BC)

I can't remember a time when I visited a city, and actually went to the same restaurant a second time because it was so good and I was utterly convinced that nothing else would ever measure up. Victoria is known for great restaurants, and all my dining experiences there were good, but this one absolutely blew my mind from start to finish.

This is a Parisian-inspired bistro with an incredible seasonal menu.

I saw a number of different plates, but my menu on night 1 was a crispy duck confit leg served on a white bean stew with red wine jus and fig jam. Night 2 was smoked blackened cod topped with figs, cherries and butter and served over mushroom risotto.

This was one of those dining experiences where I actually became high from the food - like some blissful euphoric daze of heavenly eating. Given that we had gone a second night in a row and sent so many compliments to the kitchen, the owner and executive chef actually came out to meet us. We chatted and he told us his culinary journey from his upbringing to his training to his aspirations for the restaurant.

If you find yourself in Victoria, GO HERE.
http://www.bonrouge.ca/


PIZ'ZA-ZA (Gatineau, QC)

Where has this pizza been all my life?! And who says pizza can't be a fancy candle-lit dinner with an incredible wine selection?

This is one of the National Capital Region's best-kept secrets. Constantly full, impossible to get a table more than 15 minutes after it opens, and an absolutely incredible ambiance. And did I mention the best pizza that I've ever had anywhere? I would be so bold as to say you've never had pizza until you've had this... unless you've had it from an authentic pizzeria in Italy. The crust is amazing, and what's truly special is that none of the pizzas are conventional. My favourite is the Paysanne with fresh tomato sauce, prosciutto, mushrooms, dried figs, and provolone. But they're all amazing and they have an over-the-top delicious selection of salads and desserts and the wine selection is one of the best in the region... even surpassing the more stuffy fancy restaurants in the region.

http://www.pizzaza.ca/restaurants/wine_cellars.php


GARDE-MANGER (Montreal, QC)

If you can find it, and if you can get a reservation (call six weeks in advance), you're set for one of the most amazing dining experiences Montreal has to offer.

This is the restaurant of renowned celebrity chef Chuck Hughes - you can check out his TV show, "Chuck's Day Off" on Food Network. This restaurant is cool, trendy, hip and absolutely stupendous in its rustic ambiance and stellar unique and truly originally delicious food.

No signage, no website, no ads, no paper menu. You just have to find it... that weird little pink lit box in the Old Port, where when you open up the little door you find a loud bustling restaurant full of people.

I started my first experience off with the lobster bisque poutine... yes, in the city known world-wide for its amazing poutine, this, one of Chuck Hughes' signature dishes, is a crispy bed of perfect fries topped with fresh cheese curds, chunks of lobster meat, and smothered with gravy... aka lobster bisque. I followed this up with tastings of blackened cod on perogies with carrot purée and bacon scallops with a crab salad exploding out of the shell of a crispy potato... did I forget to mention these were the best scallops I've ever tasted in my life?! And then of course I finished it off with Chuck's signature deep-fried Mars bar with ice cream - which lasted, I don't know, about 8 seconds.

This place is an adventure. If you live in Montreal or plan on going, call a good month or more in advance, and enjoy this spectacular culinary bliss.

http://www.pagesjaunes.ca/bus/Quebec/Montreal/Restaurant-Garde-Manger-Inc/2820256.html?adid=&tabSelect=&dymList=&origWhat=true&how=onlyonefound

So Much Better Than Benny


Now that that's out of the way and you know the truth about eggs (see below), time to experiment with delicious ways to enjoy that rich savory flavour. As I said several entries ago, the best way to taste the true flavour of a high quality egg is to poach it. No need to fry it in butter, no need for a Benedict sauce.
My favourite is to make little toasts. This can be done a thousand ways depending on what you like, but this is the most popular in my kitchen.
BRAD'S POACHED EGGS ON PROSCIUTTO TOASTS WITH SUNFLOWER SPROUTS
(For 2)
4 free-run eggs; 4 tsp & 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar; 4 toasts (baguette or your favourite); 4 slices prosciutto; 4 handfuls sunflower sprouts; olive oil; Kosher salt; fresh pepper
There is only a few seconds between a perfectly poached egg and a hard rubbery ball with no flavour, so as I always say, poach your eggs when everything else is done.
Toss your sprouts in a tbsp of apple cider vinegar and about a tbsp of olive oil and sprinkle with a bit of S&P. Set aside.
If you like your prosciutto a little crispy like me, lay it on a small baking sheet in a toaster oven and broil for about 45 to 60 seconds per side. If you don't have a toaster oven, just put them on a pan with a small drop of oil and fry on medium-high for about 45 seconds per side. Set aside.
Put your toasts a toaster oven or oven and keep warm when done.
Pour hot water into a large sauce pan and cover and bring to a gentle boil. While you're waiting for it to come to a boil, crack all your eggs into ramekins or small bowls. Be sure to be careful not to break the yokes. If there are casualties, place them in the fridge for something else - these do not make for good poached eggs. (TIP: The best way to crack an egg if you're using large eggs is gently against a flat surface (never the edge of a bowl). If you're working with small eggs or brittle shells, tap with a butter knife.)
Pour a tsp of vinegar in each bowl and swirl. When the water is gently boiling, quickly roll the eggs in, keeping them apart using a slotted spoon and gently nudging the egg whites over the yokes to make a ball. Quickly turn the heat to low and partly cover. They usually take about 2-3 minutes, but best to pick up the first egg you dropped and gently nudge the yoke - you're looking for a yolk very elastic and soft but the white somewhat solid. Quickly take them out and lay on a paper towel.
Drizzle the toasts with olive oil and lay the prosciutto on top. Place eggs on the prosciutto with a pinch of salt and a crack of pepper. Then top with sprouts.