Autumn Comfort 4

There's something about autumn that makes us crave rich savoury or sweet comfort foods. Remnant instincts for eating rich foods before winter from our early ancestors aside, there's something about autumn comfort foods that make us feel almost euphoric when the temperature plummets, the frost starts showing up and everything gets a whole lot more orange.

My favourite berry, or fruit for that matter, is blueberry. So much so that I store this up in August-September so that I'll have enough in the freezer to at least get me through to mid-winter. Great for smoothies, pies, yogurt snacks, vinaigrette, or anything else you can think of. Try waking up to this treat one cold autumn Sunday morning.

BRAD'S BLUEBERRY FRENCH TOAST WITH CUSTARD

(For 4)
French Toast: 8 slices of thick white bread; 4 free-run eggs; 1/2 cup milk; tbsp vanilla extract; tbsp sugar; tsp ground cinnamon; pinch salt; 2 tbsp butter; splash grapeseed oil
Custard: 3/4 cup heavy cream; 3/4 cup milk; 2 tsp vanilla extract; 4 free-run egg yolks; 1/4 cup sugar
Fresh or frozen blueberries

To make custard, pour half the cream, all the milk and vanilla in a sauce pan. Place on medium-high heat but just to a light simmer (do not boil) and then remove from heat. While you're waiting, in a bowl, whisk the remaining cream with the egg yolks and sugar until silky smooth. Drop just a dribble of the hot milk into the yolk mixture while whisking - this evens out the temperature so you don't wind up with scrambled eggs. Slowly continue adding the hot milk whisking continuously, and then pour all the mixture back into the sauce pan and cook over medium heat until it thickens and covers the back of a wooden spoon (will take 7-10 minutes). Set aside and keep warm.

Pre-heat oven to 350. For the french toast, pour all the batter ingredients in a wide dish and soak the toast about one minute per side. In a cast iron skillet, melt butter with a splash of grapeseed or other light vegetable oil and cook toast about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a pyrex dish and finish cooking in the oven about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, pour the blueberries in a saucepan and drizzle with a splash of maple syrup - bring to a gentle simmer.

Plate up with custard over the french toast topped with blueberries. Then get ready and go for a hike to burn off some of the 1000 calories you just ate ;)

Autumn Comfort 3

No matter how much I like to be creative with food, just as often, I like to fall back to what I grew up with - the food that warmed my soul as a kid. Of the thousand uses for left-over chicken, this is by far my favourite.

CLASSIC HOT CHICKEN SANDWICH AND HOMEFRIES

Left-over chicken sliced; fresh bread (your favourite); russet potatoes peeled and wedged into homefries; pan drippings from chicken; chicken stock; tbsp corn starch; tbsp water; Kosher salt; fresh pepper

What makes this dish even more special is that you get to use up the pan drippings from your chicken. Of course, if you make gravy with your roast chicken, just make extra for this little treat. But if not, keep the drippings in a tight container in the fridge. When ready, skim the fat off the top and you have a perfect homemade gravy mix. As always, I advise making stock with your chicken bones (see recipe posted a while ago) and use for soups and anything else (like gravy). Simply put your drippings and stock (however much you'll need) in a sauce pan and bring to a gentle boil. Meanwhile mix corn starch and water in a cup, and when the gravy is boiling, whisk it in and reduce to a simmer. If you like it thicker, repeat this until you get the thickness you want. Let simmer very gently for at least 10 minutes.

For the perfect traditional homefries, you want fresh clean canola oil heated in a deep-frier at 385 degrees. Cook for about 12-14 minutes, tossing every 3 minutes or so. Let drain for a minute and then dump the fries on a paper towel and season to taste.

My favourite way to set this up is to put the chicken on one slice of bread and smother it in gravy, then add the second slice of bread and smother that one - and then a bit extra for the homefries. If you have leftover stuffing, peas or root vegetables on hand, these also make great sides.

Autumn Comfort 2

Here's a spin on one of your favourite childhood comfort classics.

BRAD'S SPAGHETTI SQUASH AND MEATBALLS

(For 4)

Meatballs: 500g free-run ground meat (whatever you feel like - mix more than one type if you're so inclined); 1/2 bunch flat-leaf Italian parsley (finely chopped); palmful of Kosher salt; fresh black pepper; 1/2-3/4 cup breadcrumbs; one free-run egg; 2 tsp smoked paprika

Sauce: 6 fresh vine tomatoes; 1/2 cup tomato paste; tbsp Kosher salt; 1/4 bunch finely chopped fresh oregano; handful fresh finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley; fresh black pepper

Spaghetti: One spaghetti squash; tbsp butter

Cut the squash in half length-wise, scoop out seeds, and bake flesh-side down in a 375 degree pre-heated oven for about 35-40 minutes, or until the flesh is tender. Let cool slightly.

Blits the tomatoes in a food processor and pour in a saucepan with the rest of the sauce ingredients; bring to a boil; reduce and let simmer until you're ready to serve up.

Mix the meatball ingredients in a large bowl and form meatballs. In a cast iron skillet with olive oil, fry the meatballs on all sides until nicely browned. Place in the simmering sauce to let them finish cooking.

For the spaghetti squash, simply scrape out the flesh using a fork width-wise. The flesh will come out just like spaghetti strands.

The joys of spaghetti and meatballs without all the empty carbs of pasta :)

Autumn Comfort 1

If you miss the BBQ burgers of summer time, I can do you one better. This is my autumn comfort version of everyone's favourite summer time indulgence, and you don't even have to stand outside over the BBQ (unless you really want to). My friends get a little crazy when I say I'm making these and they tend to draw crowds, and believe me, you'll know why once you try them.

BRAD'S BISON BURGERS AND SWEET POTATO FRIES

(For 4)

500g ground free-range bison meat; 1/2 - 3/4 cup bread crumbs; 1 red onion finely chopped; 2 tsp smoked paprika; 2 tsp chile powder; 1/2 tbsp Kosher salt; 1/2 tbsp fresh black pepper; 2 tsp seasoned orange salt; 1 free-run egg; your favourite hamburger rolls; local blue cheese; 8 strips free-run bacon; fresh sliced tomatoes; fresh spinach leaves; your favourite bbq sauce; tbsp butter; splash of grapeseed or other light vegetable oil

Pan-fry bacon on medium-low until crisp and set aside. In the same pan, sauté onions until soft and almost carmilised - let cool. Combine meat, seasonings, onions and bread crumbs in a large bowl and mix - add egg and with your hands form the burger mould. If it feels too wet, add more crumbs; too dry, add some vegetable oil. Form patties by hand - about 3/4 inch thick. (This is also a great make-ahead - will keep in the refrigerator for up to a day.)

In a cast-iron skillet, melt butter with a splash of oil over medium heat. Once lightly smoking, cook the patties about 3-4 minutes per side. Top burgers with blue cheese, bacon, sauce, and veg. Amazing served with salad or fries (see below).

BRAD'S SWEET POTATO FRIES

3 sweet potatoes washed; olive oil; kosher salt; fresh black pepper; smoked paprika; dried oregano

This one is super-easy. Cut the potatoes into wedges - about 1/2 inch thick. Toss the potato in seasonings (however much or little as you think you'll like) and olive oil. Bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for about 35-40 minutes, turning occasionally until crispy and tender. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed.

Finishing Off The Farm Fresh Summer Vegetables

I discovered this past summer that one of the best ways to enjoy the peak of farm fresh vegetable season is gazpacho. Like all soups, this is extremely versatile and forgiving, but from the various approaches I've taken to it, this one topped the list.

BRAD'S GAZPACHO

(For 4)

Three juicy ripe tomatoes quartered; one red bell pepper quartered and seeded; one red onion sliced; one cucumber peeled and cut into chunks; 2 cups tomato juice; 1/2 cup water; 1/4 cup olive oil; tbsp apple cider vinegar; 1/2 bunch fresh dill; juice of a lemon; S&P

Place all ingredients except S&P in a food processor and blitz until there are no chunks. Season to taste. That's it.

Refrigerate this for a while. It's best if you make it a day ahead, but still good if it's left for a few hours. Serve alongside some chicken or steak, or just with some fresh baked baguette with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. One last chance before you have to wait until next summer!

First Restaurant Review

Okay, by no means am I suggesting I'm in any qualified to give restaurant reviews, but hey, in a sense we're all qualified because we all eat and we know what we like. After two years of opening up a culinary journey for myself, I've travelled from coast to coast and sampled from some incredible restaurants.

Before I begin review entries (positive ones only here), I'll start by naming my top 3 EVER. I can't say these are in any particular order, so I'll just go from west to east.

BRAD'S TOP 3 FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN CANADA

BON ROUGE RESTAURANT AND BISTRO (Victoria, BC)

I can't remember a time when I visited a city, and actually went to the same restaurant a second time because it was so good and I was utterly convinced that nothing else would ever measure up. Victoria is known for great restaurants, and all my dining experiences there were good, but this one absolutely blew my mind from start to finish.

This is a Parisian-inspired bistro with an incredible seasonal menu.

I saw a number of different plates, but my menu on night 1 was a crispy duck confit leg served on a white bean stew with red wine jus and fig jam. Night 2 was smoked blackened cod topped with figs, cherries and butter and served over mushroom risotto.

This was one of those dining experiences where I actually became high from the food - like some blissful euphoric daze of heavenly eating. Given that we had gone a second night in a row and sent so many compliments to the kitchen, the owner and executive chef actually came out to meet us. We chatted and he told us his culinary journey from his upbringing to his training to his aspirations for the restaurant.

If you find yourself in Victoria, GO HERE.
http://www.bonrouge.ca/


PIZ'ZA-ZA (Gatineau, QC)

Where has this pizza been all my life?! And who says pizza can't be a fancy candle-lit dinner with an incredible wine selection?

This is one of the National Capital Region's best-kept secrets. Constantly full, impossible to get a table more than 15 minutes after it opens, and an absolutely incredible ambiance. And did I mention the best pizza that I've ever had anywhere? I would be so bold as to say you've never had pizza until you've had this... unless you've had it from an authentic pizzeria in Italy. The crust is amazing, and what's truly special is that none of the pizzas are conventional. My favourite is the Paysanne with fresh tomato sauce, prosciutto, mushrooms, dried figs, and provolone. But they're all amazing and they have an over-the-top delicious selection of salads and desserts and the wine selection is one of the best in the region... even surpassing the more stuffy fancy restaurants in the region.

http://www.pizzaza.ca/restaurants/wine_cellars.php


GARDE-MANGER (Montreal, QC)

If you can find it, and if you can get a reservation (call six weeks in advance), you're set for one of the most amazing dining experiences Montreal has to offer.

This is the restaurant of renowned celebrity chef Chuck Hughes - you can check out his TV show, "Chuck's Day Off" on Food Network. This restaurant is cool, trendy, hip and absolutely stupendous in its rustic ambiance and stellar unique and truly originally delicious food.

No signage, no website, no ads, no paper menu. You just have to find it... that weird little pink lit box in the Old Port, where when you open up the little door you find a loud bustling restaurant full of people.

I started my first experience off with the lobster bisque poutine... yes, in the city known world-wide for its amazing poutine, this, one of Chuck Hughes' signature dishes, is a crispy bed of perfect fries topped with fresh cheese curds, chunks of lobster meat, and smothered with gravy... aka lobster bisque. I followed this up with tastings of blackened cod on perogies with carrot purée and bacon scallops with a crab salad exploding out of the shell of a crispy potato... did I forget to mention these were the best scallops I've ever tasted in my life?! And then of course I finished it off with Chuck's signature deep-fried Mars bar with ice cream - which lasted, I don't know, about 8 seconds.

This place is an adventure. If you live in Montreal or plan on going, call a good month or more in advance, and enjoy this spectacular culinary bliss.

http://www.pagesjaunes.ca/bus/Quebec/Montreal/Restaurant-Garde-Manger-Inc/2820256.html?adid=&tabSelect=&dymList=&origWhat=true&how=onlyonefound

So Much Better Than Benny

Now that that's out of the way and you know the truth about eggs (see below), time to experiment with delicious ways to enjoy that rich savory flavour. As I said several entries ago, the best way to taste the true flavour of a high quality egg is to poach it. No need to fry it in butter, no need for a Benedict sauce.

My favourite is to make little toasts. This can be done a thousand ways depending on what you like, but this is the most popular in my kitchen.

BRAD'S POACHED EGGS ON PROSCIUTTO TOASTS WITH SUNFLOWER SPROUTS

(For 2)

4 free-run eggs; 4 tsp & 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar; 4 toasts (baguette or your favourite); 4 slices prosciutto; 4 handfuls sunflower sprouts; olive oil; Kosher salt; fresh pepper

There is only a few seconds between a perfectly poached egg and a hard rubbery ball with no flavour, so as I always say, poach your eggs when everything else is done.

Toss your sprouts in a tbsp of apple cider vinegar and about a tbsp of olive oil and sprinkle with a bit of S&P. Set aside.

If you like your prosciutto a little crispy like me, lay it on a small baking sheet in a toaster oven and broil for about 45 to 60 seconds per side. If you don't have a toaster oven, just put them on a pan with a small drop of oil and fry on medium-high for about 45 seconds per side. Set aside.

Put your toasts a toaster oven or oven and keep warm when done.

Pour hot water into a large sauce pan and cover and bring to a gentle boil. While you're waiting for it to come to a boil, crack all your eggs into ramekins or small bowls. Be sure to be careful not to break the yokes. If there are casualties, place them in the fridge for something else - these do not make for good poached eggs. (TIP: The best way to crack an egg if you're using large eggs is gently against a flat surface (never the edge of a bowl). If you're working with small eggs or brittle shells, tap with a butter knife.)

Pour a tsp of vinegar in each bowl and swirl. When the water is gently boiling, quickly roll the eggs in, keeping them apart using a slotted spoon and gently nudging the egg whites over the yokes to make a ball. Quickly turn the heat to low and partly cover. They usually take about 2-3 minutes, but best to pick up the first egg you dropped and gently nudge the yoke - you're looking for a yolk very elastic and soft but the white somewhat solid. Quickly take them out and lay on a paper towel.

Drizzle the toasts with olive oil and lay the prosciutto on top. Place eggs on the prosciutto with a pinch of salt and a crack of pepper. Then top with sprouts.

Tastes Like Eggs

Like eating with the seasons, eating what's not genetically modified and eating animal-based food that's raised and handled in accordance with nature and slaughtered humanely, understanding the facts about eggs and egg production has entailed much research.

In my quest to find 100% organic free-range meat, I stumbled on a farm not 20km north of my home that raises seasonal lamb, beef and goat; as well as laying hens. But first, a little background.

Floating toward more ecologically sustainable and healthier foods I started reading labels very carefully, paying attention to every detail of where it came from and how it was procured. I quickly learned, however, that like the "organic" label in the late 90s, the free-range label has almost virtually unregulated, allowing pretty much any factory "farm" to label the dubious claim on packaging. And this goes without mentioning ecological sustainability of foods, especially wild-caught sea food.

Until regulations are clearer, grocers and farmers will continue to make these dubious claims and thus a lot of vigilance is required on the part of anyone wanting to eat ethically. Fortunately there are a few simple rules to keep in mind that will help you learn what to expect; although be ready to be disappointed on occasion as you won't know until you try.

I mentioned in a previous entry how to spot a real free-range chicken; although you won't know until you taste it. The same rule applies with meat in general. Free range meat essentially has more colour and much more flavour. But if you're not sure, the best thing to do is track down the farmer. Ha! Not so easy. If you get your meat from a grocery store it likely comes from Ontario, Alberta or the US and probably nowhere near you. Nor would they ever let you visit or respond candidly to your questions. If you can find a local farmer, I suggest setting up a seasonal order of meat so that you know where it's coming from, how the animals are treated, and all this can be verified with your own eyes. The farmer that I'm now ordering from is willing to give full tours so I saw with my own two eyes the wide-open fields several acres in size where livestock can literally run, bond with their peers, raise their young, and play. I pet the lambs and even lended a hand in herding a cow that was fearful of crossing a small cliff to get to where the rest of the cattle were. I even met the layer hens, hanging out with the farmhouse cat, and who would, shockingly, approach you clucking friendly and even let you handle them.

I also learned a lot.

Suffice it to say, if you're interested in learning more and don't have a free-range organic farm close by, I recommend some bedtime reading: Michael Pollan's "In Defense of Food" (http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/books/In-Defense-Of-Food-Michael-Pollan/9781594201455-item.html?pticket=pjn3avyz2zh3bwzl4qkzl4ryRJJF8I20%2f2HWWCXsXs0yOc8wEIE%3d) and Jonathan Foer's "Eating Animals" (http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/books/search?keywords=eating%20animals&pageSize=10).

The bottom line is that ethical eating takes work, dedication and sometimes tough decisions. But I'm of the mind that dedicating my efforts to it and eventually passing it down will push the market further in the right direction, and certainly improvement can be seen all across the food industry (except the poultry industry where it is steadily getting worse).

So on that note, free range eggs. How do you know? Sadly, after you crack it open. But here's a few hints:

1) It is rare if not unheard of the find a truly free-range egg producer in a grocery store. The free-range labelling is absolute hogwash. The free-range term can be used for example, simply when the hen is not confined to a wired cage. If six thousand hens have only a few hundred square feet, which incidentally is covered in three inches of shit (thus they avoid leaving their perch anyway), then this passes the legal definition of free-range. You need to find a specialty distributor (occasionally whole food stores) or go directly to the farmer.

2) Free-range eggs will never be uniform in size or colour. The low-tech operations and low output of an actual free-range farm makes size sorting inefficient so all shapes and sizes are packaged together.

3) If it's a large-scale company or brand name, it cannot be free-range.

4) And this is one of the most crucial - like meat the free range egg is much darker and has much more flavour. Simple rule, free range yolk is orange, factory is pale yellow.

Now you know.

A Meal of Super Foods

Give your body what it wants! This improvised treat is so packed with nature's goodness that your body will be thanking you for days. Omega-3-packed salmon, folic acid-packed dandelion, and complex carb-packed wild rice. This is proof that a health kick is probably the best thing that can ever happen to you.

BRAD'S WILD SALMON WITH LEMON AND DILL WITH LOCAL DANDELION SALAD AND WILD RICE

(for 2) 2 wild salmon steaks; fresh lemon slices; fresh dill; 2-3 tbsp butter; splash olive oil; Kosher salt and fresh pepper

Bunch fresh local dandelion (in season now!!); extra virgin olive oil; Kosher salt and fresh pepper; big handful pine nuts

Wild rice with butter

Cook rice with about 2 tbsp of butter (normally takes about 45-50 minutes).

In a cast iron skillet heated to medium, melt butter and add olive oil. Preheat oven to 350. Season salmon steaks. When oil is smoking add salmon and sear for about 3 minutes, and then flip to sear the other side for 3 minutes and top with lemon slices and dill. Transfer to the oven and cook for about 10 minutes.

Toss salad ingredients together.

Let salmon sit for 4-5 minutes and then plate up.

You Can be Bad

The way I look at dessert is, if you take the time and make it yourself, you've truly earned it. It's so much more gratifying to indulge your sweet tooth this way than to tear open the drum stick.

Of course, those of you that know me know that may favourite things in the world include dark chocolate, maple syrup, and ice cream. So why not throw them all together with some caramelised bananas?!

The caramelised banana split is an idea I got from an episode of The F Word so credit goes to Gordon Ramsay for this, but essentially you simply cut a banana length-wise and then sprinkle the wet side with coarse sugar generously. And then, just like a crème brulée, you torch it. Of course, unlike me who likes to toss around cash on kitchen gadgets, most people don't have a food torch, so this can also be done by laying the sugared bananas on a baking sheet, and putting it in the oven on the highest rack on broil for about 3-4 minutes - watch closely; yank them out as soon as you see them bubbling rapidly. With this method of course, you need to let them cool or you're ice cream will melt too fast.

Topping a banana split is all you. I usually just grab whatever's in my baking cupboard, which almost always includes some dark chocolate. Just like coffee, the way to go with chocolate, no matter what you're making, is organic fair trade. You will absolutely taste the difference good clean soil makes to cocoa bean, even when it's melted over ice cream.

The trick to melting chocolate is a gentle melting process, and something to keep it from hardening from the shock of the cold ice cream. To do this, place a metal or glass bowl over a saucepan of water (make sure the water doesn't touch the boil) and lay the chocolate (roughly chopped) in the bowl and bring to a gentle boil. When the chocolate starts to melt, add about 1/2 tbsp of corn syrup and whisk until liquidy.

And of course, to add my special touch I added a maple-cream sauce... don't ask - essentially it was botched maple fudge (I forgot to whip the cream) but it turned into an absolutely amazing sauce instead.

This is intensely delicious and downright orgasmic. Indulge!

Tastes Like Chicken

Chicken - the bland poultry that needs to be intensely flavoured or immersed in fat to taste good... oh man how we've been misled.

The fact is, chicken, when reared properly, is as flavourful as steak! That is to say it carries intense flavour with no sauces or special seasonings or deep frying needed. I've said it before - happy meat is tasty meat - when you raise livestock that can roam about and without growth hormone or antibiotic, you'd be amazed at the result. These chickens cost about double that of a factory farm chicken, but they can provide a full six to eight meals and the carcass provides for an amazing stock.

I've already discussed the many reasons for investing in better food, even if it means cutting costs elsewhere, but there are many reasons I would recommend this. There is of course the obvious humane and environmental motivation for buying free run meat. Ethics aside, the stress of the confined space in wire cages causes an over-abundance of adrenaline production, which can cause spikes in blood toxins... not to mention factory chickens live ankle-deep in their own shit. It is for these reasons that I will either starve to death or become vegetarian before I eat another factory chicken.

Interesting experiment - The chicken stock recipe referenced a few entries below... For those of you that have made stock with a factory chicken, you'll know about the yellow foam that appears as soon as the water comes to a boil. Quite simply, you grab a wooden spoon and skim this off a few times and it's eventually gone. But I've often wondered what it is. The first time I made stock using a free-run bird, I placed the lid down, raised the heat to max, waited for the steam and when I popped the lid off to skim off the scum... no scum. Ha! And in the 10 batches of stock ever since... no scum. Think about that - still hungry for that fryer? You know the yellow foam that washes up on the banks of a polluted pond or river? Conceptually, I think there's a commonality here. And I'm not about to dip a cup into the edge of that river and take a big slurp.

So! All that to say, try this once - you'll never go back.

BRAD'S FREE-RUN CHICKEN WITH LOCAL ROOT VEG

Free-run organic chicken; olive oil; Kosher salt and fresh pepper; local carrots and blue potatoes chopped; and celery chopped; 8-10 thyme sprigs; 2-3 bay leaves

Lay vegetables in a ceramic dish, drizzle with olive oil, season and toss. Layer thyme and bay over the veg. Lay a metal wire rack over the dish, pat the chicken dry with paper towels and rub with S&P and lay on the rack. Roast at 375 for about 90 minutes, tossing veg occasionally. Internal temperature should be 170-175. You will not believe what you taste!

The Balkans know how to Live

One of the key things the food of my English and Irish ancestors and the food of south-eastern Europeans have in common is cabbage, cabbage and more cabbage. Personally I find it tastes like sweaty socks and so for a while I thought maybe I just won't like southeastern European food, what with all the cabbage and pickling and raw onion... that is until I visited Balkan Foods store in Montreal. The smell of smoked meat was almost overpowering. This is home to the world's best cheese spread, called Kajmak, imported from Serbia as well as an endless array of preserves from various parts of former Yugoslavia. The sandwich board outside displays a mouthwatering temptation of smoked sausages sautéed with bell peppers on a bun sitting on a pile of raw onion... the raw onion I could do without. Being the average height for a northwestern European Canadian, I rarely feel short, but when you stand in a room of Serbian men averaging about 6'7 speaking in a gruff Slavic tongue it can certainly be intimidating... but they were super-nice, and I walked away with a bag full of goodies, wrapped tightly in multiple layers of plastic so as not to stink up my car with the smell of smoked meat.

With my first crack at Balkan smoked sausage I decided to make one of my all time favourites - similar to what they put in the bun, only over Jazmin rice - not very Balkan, but hey - it works. Once again, simplicity at its finest!

BALKAN-STYLE SAUSAGE AND PEPPERS

Essentially, I made this very similar to the way I make most sausage and pepper dishes, only this time let more of the flavours talk instead of caramelising to death. To make this authentic and to make the flavours "pop", quite simply - more garlic, more onions. For each 2 servings, slice one 12-inch sausage into 3/4 inch slices. Heat a cast-iron skillet on medium-high and coat the bottom in olive oil and toss in the sausage (in judging how much oil to put in, look at the sausage inside - the more white speckles, the less oil you'll need, but from my experience with smoked sausage, much of the fat has been rendered off, so chances are you'll need more than less.)

Toss in a whole white onion roughly chopped and 1/2 each of a red and yellow bell pepper cut into strips. Fry and season with salt and pepper gradually. About 2 minutes before you're ready to take it up, toss in about 7-8 cloves of chopped garlic. Serve it however you like - on a bun, over rice, or even on its own.

Укусно!

The New Sunday Morning Favourite

I had always been tempted to try quail eggs. Of course the size of them always scared me from wanting to crack them on to a hot pan for fear I would inevitably crack the yoke, so as a first step I tried out this little experiment that turned out stellar and has now made my regular Sunday morning rotation.

BRAD'S QUAIL EGG SALAD AND PEROGIES

(For 2) 16 free-range quail eggs; one bunch local watercress; juice of half lemon; big splash olive oil; kosher salt and fresh pepper; 8 perogies (your favourite); 1/2 local onion finely chopped; 4 strips free-range bacon cut into one-inch pieces.

Fry the bacon on low heat until crisp, set aside and keep warm. Raise the heat and sauté onion for a few seconds, season and add the perogies. Cook about 4 minutes per side.

Meanwhile, bring a small pot of water with the eggs to a gentle boil for 2 minutes and then drain. Peel off the shells (run them under cool water so they're safe to handle; then tap them on a hard surface; run your nail from top to bottom and then peel gently. Wash and trim the watercress and toss with lemon juice, olive oil and S&P. Add quail eggs over the top. Layer bacon and onion on the plate and top with perogies. Serve with local sour cream if you like.

February's Treat of the Month

It will amaze you just how incredible all poultry is when it's raised the right way. This is a mouth-watering favourite of mine, and is absolutely simple.

BRAD'S ROAST QUAIL WITH BROCCOLI AND SQUASH

Whole free-range quail per person; organic butternut squash; organic head of broccoli; 4 tbsp local butter; kosher salt; fresh pepper; thyme sprigs; olive oil

Melt a tbsp of butter with a generous amount of olive oil in a cast iron skillet on medium-high and sear the quails (no more than three at a time) on all sides until golden. Remove them from the pan. Add the squash and cook for 6-7 minutes. Pre-heat oven to 400. Add broccoli, season and cook for a moment (add oil if needed). Then return the quails to the pan breast-side up and add the remaining butter to the pan. As it melts, spoon it into the cavity of the quails. Season generously and lay 5-10 sprigs of thyme over everything. Transfer to the oven and cook for 35-40 minutes or until internal temperature of quails is 170. Goes great with a glass of pinot noir.

The Mission

As mentioned before, the mission for this blog for 2010 is more local, more seasonal. And so far this mission has been an overwhelming success, even moreso than I would have estimated.

Specifically, the mission is to ensure that in winter, not less than 60% of my food consumed is local, what's not local is at the very least organic and fair trade, and meat is 100% free-range and where possible, organic. Sound ambitious? Sound expensive?

Well, I'm happy to report that this has been an overwhelming success so far this winter. And for the first 6 weeks of the year, my grocery bill has actually DROPPED by about 12%. The reason? Full use of food to the max. Nothing goes to waste and meals are planned for all seven days of the week, and groceries bought once.

This started off as a bit of a challenge, mainly because doing this requires a trip to three different specialty stores.

For me, it's important to know where my food comes from and how it's procured. And while I haven't experienced an increase in costs, it would be worth it and this would not deter me. And for that matter, if I had to, I would cut costs elsewhere. Afterall, we pay for tv, internet, phones, cars, clothes... perhaps the last place we should be "bargain hunting" is with food... you get what you pay for. And if you don't want the genetic mutant produce, better be a little more selective - I'm really doubtful that a lemon should be the same size as a Florida orange.

The other added bonus is that I simply feel amazing. Despite a grueling winter I feel I've never been healthier. I sleep better and I feel less sluggish. I guess this should come as no surprise.

So throughout the year I will share some of my favourite gems; see some of my top picks for January below.

And it's on to week 7...

Canadian Farmers, Canadian Growers

When you make friends with your local butcher and start eating meat from happy animals you realise just how much flavour there is in food. This is a 100% local, 100% organic, free range, stylish dinner that will keep your dinner guests returning.

BRAD'S BISON STEAK WITH BEET RELISH & WATERCRESS-POTATO SALAD

Bison: 5 oz Bison steak per person; red wine; S&P

Salad: blue potatoes quartered; bunch watercress; thyme; 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil; 1/4 cup sour cream; 2 tbsp sherry vinnegar; tbsp horseradish; S&P

Relish (make ahead): 5 beets trimmed; 1/4 horseradish; 2/3 cup brown rice vinnegar; 1/4 cup fine sugar; tsp salt

The relish is a great make-ahead that when placed in a mason jar will last for months. Simply boil the beets for about an hour in salted water. Using a damp cloth, slide the peels off and let cool. Grate them into a bowl with the horseradish. Meanwhile, bring the rest of the ingredients to a boil in a saucepan and pour over the beet mix and toss. Let cool, refrigerate for at least 6 hours - even better if made a few days in advance.

This potato salad is without a doubt, the best you'll ever have. Par-boil the potatoes until fork-tender and then roast them off with a big drizzle of olive oil and a few thyme sprigs at 450 degrees until very tender (about 10-15 minutes). Whisk together the dressing ingredients. To serve, layer large handfuls of watercress over the potatoes and then drizzle the dressing and add extra kosher salt and fresh pepper to taste.

Bison steak is simple and fast, and the most amazing steak you'll ever have. Season steaks. In a cast-iron skillet, melt a knob of butter per steak and add a big splash of olive oil. When smoking, add the steak. Sear 3-4 minutes on each side, then remove from the pan and let rest covered about 5-7 minutes. Just before serving, reheat the pan on medium-high until smoking again and add a large splash of red wine (stand back!) and stir rapidly for about 2 minutes then remove from heat. Quickly plate the steak and then pour over the sauce.

You Can Eat Seasonal Salads in Winter!

Local and seasonal in Canada is possible, if you know where to go and what to look for. Remember, the best and healthiest salads are the ones made with the richer and darker leaf vegetables - you're not missing anything by axing the Romaine or Iceberg.

BRAD'S WINTER SALAD

Dressing: Tbsp each of Sherry Vinnegar and Brown Rice Vinnegar; Tbsp grain mustard; finely minced local shallot; scant cup extra virgin olive oil; S&P

Salad: Raddichio and Endive shredded; 1/2 bunch chopped chives; handful crumbled local blue cheese; big handful crushed walnuts

One of the best investments you can make is mason jars; especially if for pickling or dressings. The above dressing is a great make-ahead and holds for about 10-12 days.

The key with a great dressing is to let the shallot sit in the vinnegar for at least 15 minutes to set the flavours meld. Then whisk the rest of the ingredients except the oil; and then steadily add the oil whisking in a stream.

The salad above is served alongside an herb-stuffed pork tenderloin and potato salad.

TIP: For potato salad, use local new or red potatoes, which you can find pretty much year-round, and instead of mayo, use your local dairy producer's brand of sour cream (if it's liquid, it's not actually sour cream).

To Warm You Through the Dead of Winter

This is an outstanding pot that I cook up on a Sunday afternoon that will get me through a busy week. And in sub-zero temperatures, it's just what the body needs.

BRAD'S GUINNESS, MAPLE, SMOKED PORK BEAN POT

1 cup each of dried white, black and kidney beans; 5-6 ounces of smoked pork ribs; can of Guinness; 1/4 cup maple syrup; 1/4 cup molasses; 1/2 cup chicken stock; one onion finely chopped; 3-4 cloves garlic peeled and chopped; big dash cayenne; finely chopped hot pepper (your favourite); S&P to taste

Soak beans in a large bowl of water for at least 12 hours.

Pour boiling water over the hot pepper and strain. Set aside.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, boil beans for about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In the large pot, sauté onion until soft, then add garlic; sauté for a minute, then add hot pepper.

Add the remaining ingredients, simmer and cover simmering for about 3 hours.

Supreme Winter Breakfast

There's something about the flavour combinations of cinnamon, nutmeg and maple syrup that warm the soul in winter. On a Saturday morning before heading out to the cross-country ski trails, this is an excellent way to start off.

CINNAMON AND NUTMEG FRENCH TOAST

(For 2)
4 free-range eggs; 1/2 cup milk; 1/4 cup brown sugar; big splash apple cider; big dashes of nutmeg and cinnamon; 6 pieces of egg bread, a couple days old

Preheat 375. Mix all the ingredients except the bread in a bowl, and then pour into a large dish. Soak the bread in the batter for about 7-8 minutes. Then turn and soak the other side for about 5 minutes. Lay flat onto a well-greased baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes; turn and bake 10 minutes more. Great with a side of free range bacon, real maple syrup and some apple cider.

A Year of Food for Thought

Since two years ago, I resolved to abandon pre-packaged foods and take-aways and I've never been healthier.

As a result I lost 34 pounds and spend far less on food. Eating real foods, buying from local producers, and preparing your own food are not elitist or luxuries. I'm living proof that investment pays off. And the adage that eating healthy is expensive - false. As I said, my grocery bill went down about 20% once I abandoned the grocery store ails. That it's too time-consuming - false. Most weeknights I've prepared a dinner, eaten, and cleaned up all before 6pm, leaving a full evening at my leisure.

I'll continue to blog throughout 2010. I hope these recipes and my tips if nothing else, have at least inspired my readers.

Of course I do have my inspirations, so I'll raise my glass to Ricardo Larrivée, Jaime Oliver, Gordon Ramsay, and Jeff Crump and Bettina Schormann for enlightening my culinary visions and providing so much inspiration over the past year for this amateur.

My new mission for the new year - more local, more seasonal - keep checking back to see how my new challenge is going.

Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas Indeed!

A summary of all that's great about family, friends, home cooking... that's one of my favourite parts of Christmas.

So I'll share my take on Christmas dinner (or Thanksgiving or New Years, why not.)

BRAD'S CHRISTMAS TURKEY DINNER

Whole turkey; large container or picnic cooler; 2 cups dark brown sugar; 2 cups salt; ice packs

Stuffing: 1/3 loaf whole grain bread at least a few days old; two grated carrots; two large palmfuls savoury; palmful of kosher salt; generous amount of black pepper

Peas Pudding: 1 1/2 cups yellow split peas; cheese cloth; 2 tbsp salt or salt pork or beef riblet; 4 tbsp unsalted butter

Fried Potatoes: Large white local potatoes cut in half length-wise; 2 tbsp butter per 4 halves; olive oil; kosher salt; fresh black pepper

Fixin's: Sliced carrots and green peas; cranberry sauce; gravy (see below)

Like chicken, turkey all too often suffers the abuse of over-cooking. A meat thermometer is a very wise investment, as turkey doneness is difficult to gage without cutting it open. Also, as much as possible, buy a fresh local turkey - order in advance. Free range is clearly the best choice - a happy turkey is a tasty turkey.

The key to a super-moist meat and crispy skin is brining. So the night before, take a huge container like a picnic cooler and fill with about 5-6 litres of cold water (depending on the size of your turkey and the size of your container - you want it to cover the turkey completely). Whisk in brown sugar and salt and place the turkey in with about 3-4 ice packs over night.

Combine all stuffing ingredients in a food processor. TIP: Don't over-stuff your turkey - the heat won't reach the underlay of the breast meat and it will be undercooked. Leave at least an inch of room between the top of the stuffing and the bottom of the breast.

Rinse of the turkey and pat it dry with paper towels. Lay it on the cooking rack and stuff it. (You can also cook your stuffing separately in a pot with a bit of chicken or turkey stock.) Season the turkey generously. Cook at 350 for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours, depending on the size - the butcher will tell you; if you bought it at a store it will be written on the package. After about an hour, start basting it every 30 minutes or so.

About 60 minutes before you plan to take out the turkey, prepare potatoes. Boil them in water until quite tender, then set them aside until the turkey is out of the oven.

About 45 minutes before you plan to take out the turkey, prepare peas pudding. Cut a large square of cheese cloth and lay in the peas and tie it into a sac. Place in boiling generously salted water for about 45 minutes (you'll want to reduce the heat to a high simmer so it doesn't boil over - make sure the sac is completely covered). Once done, turn out of the sac into a bowl, add butter, stir and season to taste.

Boil or steam side veggies as you like. Keep the water for gravy.

Once the turkey is done, take it out and cover it in foil. You'll want it to sit for at least 20 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, extract your pan drippings and pour into a large clear cup or mason jar. Give it a minute for the fat to float to the top then skim off and discard. Pour it into a sauce pan, add a big splash of veggie water. Season well and add chicken bouillon (optional). Mix two tbsp corn starch with equal amount of cold water and then stir that into the gravy. Bring to a boil and let simmer until ready to serve.

About 5 minutes before plating, preheat a pan with butter and a splash of olive oil and once smoking lightly lay in the potatoes flesh-side down (no more than 4 halves at a time) and fry for about 3 minutes or until golden brown. Flip and season generously, remove from heat.

Plate up, and enjoy! Seasons greetings!

Different Take on a Comfort Food Classic

Corned beef hash was a main staple growing up. A favourite that prepared the old way I probably couldn't stomach today. But I'm all about turning those old comfort foods into something great, but still quick, cheap and non-pretentious.

BRAD'S CORNED BEEF HASH

2 diced potatoes; pound of corned beef; 2 tbsp butter; olive oil; 1 red onion; 1 red bell pepper; pinch fresh grated nutmeg; pinch paprika (preferably Hungarian); 4 eggs; kosher salt; fresh black pepper; fresh parsley

Steam or boil the potatoes until soft.

In a large frying pan or skillet, melt butter with a splash of olive oil and sauté onion for about 3 minutes and then add peppers and sauté another 2 or three minutes. Mix in the cooked potatoes, corned beef (cubed or flaked, your choice), nutmeg and paprika. Season with Kosher salt and fresh pepper and toss around. Press the mix down a bit, reduce the heat to medium-low. Once it starts to crust a bit on the bottom, stir it, and then do this again after a few minutes.

Make four holes and crack the eggs into each. Cover the pan and cook until the whites are firm but the yolk is still soft and creamy. Garnish with parsley.

Top O' The Morning Part III

Waffles are one of the most fun things to make and are a definite crowd-pleaser. A small waffle iron is definitely a wise investment; especially if you like waffles and you take a moment to read the ingredients list on a box of Eggos.

BRAD'S CINNAMON WAFFLES

2 cups all-purpose non-bleached flour; 2 tsp baking powder; tsp baking soda; pinch salt; 2 tsp cinnamon; 2 cups buttermilk; 1/4 cup unsalted butter melted; 2 eggs separated; vegetable oil

Sift the dry ingredients in a bowl. Mix the buttermilk, melted butter, and egg yolks together. With an electric mixer, whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the wet. Whisk until combined, then gently fold in the egg whites. Let sit.

Preheat the waffle iron. Brush with vegetable oil. Ladle the waffle mix onto the iron (about 1/3 cup per waffle) and gently close the cover. Let cook for about 3-4 minutes or until there's very little steam. Gently remove and keep warm while you make the batch.

Best served with maple syrup, and if you really want to jazz it up add some banana or apple slices, slivered almonds, or even some whipped cream.

These can be made ahead and refrigerated for a few days or frozen for a few months - just toast them like you would toast.

Yes, You Can Make Homefries without a Deep Fryer

Don't have a deep fryer? Don't want to eat deep fried food? No problem.

Okay. So I won't claim that these taste the same as chip-wagon or fish n' chips - style home fries, but I'd dare to say they're just as good and some might say better.

BRAD'S HERBED HOMEFRIES

(For 4)

Two thin-skinned local new potatoes; 5 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed (not chopped); 6-8 thyme sprigs; extra virgin olive oil; kosher salt; black pepper

Two keys to great home fries are the right potato, and par-boiling or steaming. Get Canadian-grown and preferably as local as possible fresh potatoes - you will notice a difference from the genetic mutant American potatoes.

Wash potatoes and chop into fries about a square centimetre thick. Boil a large pot of water and either steam the potatoes in a steamer or par-boil them until fork-tender, about 10-12 minutes. Let them sit for a moment to dry. Preheat oven to 425. Drizzel a thin layer of olive oil on a baking sheet and spread out the fries. Drizzle more olive oil over the top and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Scatter the garlic and thyme about. Roast until golden and crispy, about 15-18 minutes.